|
Models
# KFR-32GW/X1c, KFR-51GW/X1c and KFR-66GW/X1c
Please
fully read these instructions before calling for any support
or advice.
Although
this installation is suitable for a competent DIY enthusiast,
it is recommended that this equipment should be installed
correctly by professionally qualified technicians according to
the manufacturer’s specifications and requirements. Please
read the entire instructions before commencing, so you can
understand the full process before you begin. Failure to
install correctly as set out in these instructions may render
your 12 month parts warranty null & void.
If
the system is installed incorrectly, and as a result is not
operating correctly or is damaged, it is the responsibility of
the purchaser / installer. The supplier / manufacturer accept
no responsibility for sub-standard or incorrect
installations.
Guide
to the customer
The
customer should make provision for a suitable power supply
source; the voltage should be in the range of 90-110% of the
rated voltage of the system. The power supply circuit should
have MCB leakage protection. The power supply capacity should
be no less than 13 Amps. You are advised to use an independent
circuit and a suitably earthed socket / outlet, although a
single system can normally run from a standard domestic ring
main. The wiring must be installed by a qualified electrician
according to the latest electrical safety requirements.
The air-conditioner must be well earthed; the switch of the
main power of the air-conditioner must be reliably earthed, it
is recommended that there is a mains isolator on the outdoor
unit.. The power supply should be connected by a qualified
electrician.
Your
packages contain:
-
1 x Outdoor Condenser Unit
-
1 x Indoor Evaporator Unit
-
2 x 4Metre Insulated copper connecting pipes
-
Interconnecting electrical flex
-
Remote control with batteries
-
Plastic tube for hole in wall
-
Plastic round trim for hole in wall
-
Putty to seal hole in wall
-
Tape to wrap pipes after installation
-
Water drain extension pipe (translucent
ribbed pipe)
-
Right angled black plastic hose connector for
fitting to base of outdoor unit to pipe away any drips if
fitting above a pathway, attach standard garden hosepipe
to the required length
-
User Manual
-
This Installation Guide
Installation
Steps.
1.
Select the most suitable installation
position.
2.
How to bend the 2 copper pipes
correctly by hand.
3.
Installing the air-conditioner.
4.
Connecting & correctly bending the
pipes.
5.
Expelling the air in the pipes and the
indoor unit.
6.
Electrical Connection.
7.
Testing.
1
Selecting the most suitable installation position
Indoor
Unit
Ensure
there is no heating or steam source nearby. No obstacles are
in the way of the pipes or wiring. There is good air
circulation all round. It is convenient to adopt measures to
reduce noises. Don’t install them near the doorway.
Make sure you have the distance specified in
the picture between the ceiling, walls, furniture and other
obstacles. Install 2 metres high above the floor (for best
performance). The
system can be fitted at the top of a dwarf wall, but you will
lose some efficiency. The front vents must not be obscured by
furniture etc. If in doubt you should opt for the next size
system up when fitting to a dwarf wall. The picture to the
right shows one possible option for routing of the pipes/wires
from the indoor unit to the outdoor unit. Although, you can
exit the copper pipes at the left hand or right hand ends, or
from the bottom of the indoor unit, as well as at ninety
degrees straight through the wall to the rear of the unit. You
will find there are ‘cut-out sections in the plastic, which
can be removed to accommodate the pipes exiting from different
positions. The 2 copper pipes attached to the rear of the
indoor unit are designed to be ‘swivelled’ through 90 or
180 degrees to give these other positioning options, but care
must be taken not to kink or crush the pipes. You need to hold
them at the point where they are attached to the back of the
indoor unit, then gently move them in small stages of 2cm at a
time with a 3 second rest between each. It is also recommended
that the foam insulation be cut carefully with a knife and
rolled back at the point of swivel so that you can see the
copper pipes and make certain that you are not compressing
them or kinking them during this pipe alignment process. Once
finished, the foam insulation should be put back and re-taped
in place with a good quality waterproof tape.
Outdoor
Unit
The
unit is designed to be weather-proof; however, ideally the
unit should be sited in the shade to avoid the heat of the
midday sun as this can affect cooling performance. You can
shade with a ‘porch’ type canopy if you wish. If you put
up a canopy to protect it from rain and sun, pay attention not
to cause any obstruction to the dissipation of heat from the
condenser. There must be at least 100mm of space to the rear
and sides and 600mm to the front of the outdoor unit. Make
sure any excess copper pipe-work that may be ‘coiled’ up
behind the condenser is not obstructing it from drawing air
through the rear of the unit.
Don’t
keep animals or plants near the installation location as the
hot air from the outdoor unit will affect them. Also do not
allow any foliage to grow into the unit, check it often to
ensure it is free from all obstructions. In the wintertime,
check that the large fan can rotate freely and that it is not
blocked with leaves, snow or ice. Make sure you have the
distances specified above between walls and other obstacles.
Keep away from heat sources or flammable gases. The
installation base and supporting frame should be strong and
secure. The machine should be on a horizontally level surface.
You can obtain a wall bracket mounting kit from your reseller,
or directly from us.
If you are mounting the unit on a flat roof it is recommended that
you fix it to 2 external grade timbers of 100mm x 50mm x
1000mm, like ‘skis’ so that it cannot blow over in high
winds. It is recommended to use countersunk galvanised bolts
fitted from underneath so as not to damage any felt roof. Then
secure on top of the outdoor unit’s ‘feet’ with nylon
lock nuts.
Check the installation periodically to ensure it is stable and
secure.
2
How to bend the copper pipes correctly by hand
DO
NOT use a 15mm pipe bender as the pipes are ½” and this
will crush them as they will spread and be flattened! Do not
use any internal bending springs as you will damage the pipe
internally by chafing the copper.
Follow
the instructions below.
The
copper pipes take a little patience and care to bend suitable
curves without crushing or kinking. There are 2 pipes, one is
¼” and the other is ½”. The quarter inch is fairly soft
and will bend easily to a gentle curve, be careful not to kink
though as it is very soft! Be gentle and patient and you will
have perfect bends! The ½” pipe requires a bit more patience;
you will be able to achieve a radius of 5” or perhaps even 4”
if you are careful. First of all, cut round the foam
insulation (do not cut into the copper) and slide apart the
insulation at the point you want to bend or curve the pipe, so
that you can see the copper pipe itself. Then, working from
the centre position of your required curve, placing your
thumbs together, press them up into the copper pipe and gently
draw down with
your fingertips on either side (rather like snapping a stick),
be careful to ‘feel’ the pipe bending and stop as it
starts to depress. Move along an inch, left or right and make
another tiny impression with your thumbs and pull down
slightly with your fingertips. Continue in this way, making
perhaps 30 or so tiny indents, until you have a perfect curve,
Observe the pipe and check it is not depressed more than 1mm
in any place. Then slide back the foam insulation until it
meets, then tape the joint with some good waterproof tape.
Make all required curves in the same way.
3a
Installation of the Outdoor Unit
The
outdoor unit must be fitted HORIZONTALLY so that the 4 metal
‘feet’ are flat on the mounting surface in a horizontal
position.  The
outdoor unit must be firmly fixed to avoid falling over in
strong winds (see notes above).
The
large fan with grille over must be facing outwards from any
wall; this is the front of the unit. Install on a cement base
as in the drawing or use our wall brackets (available
separately).
If
it is installed near coastal areas or high above the ground
where strong wind are likely, the unit should be installed
close to a wall to ensure the normal operation of the fan and
a wind blocking construction (like an open planked shelter,
‘picket fence style’) should be made. If it is an
overhanging installation (using wall mounting brackets), the
structure of the mounting wall should be made of a solid
brick, concrete, or materials with equivalent strength, and of
sufficient support capacity. Otherwise, measures such as
reinforcement, support or vibration damping should be adopted.
Always check the fastness and security of all wall mounted
installation bolts every few months to ensure safety.
3b
Installation of the Indoor Unit 
PLEASE
NOTE: when removing the first
copper
end plug pipe (either one, as it does not matter which is
removed first) from the back of the indoor unit (these are the
short pieces of pipe with crimped and soldered ends, or end
caps)
you
should hear a rush of air escaping at high pressure, this is
completely normal, the units are pressurised at the factory to
ensure it is leak free when you receive it. If you do not hear
any air escape as the first of these pipes are undone, please
contact us BEFORE FITTING as your unit may
be
faulty.
Installation
Procedure
First
check the wall and make sure that it is firm and secure. Use
four suitable screws with suitable wall plugs to fasten the
installation bracket onto the wall. Keep it level and
completely flat to the wall otherwise it might cause water
droplets to form on the plate when the air-conditioner is
running in cooling mode. Make sure the top is well fixed at
the highest points, or the bracket may flex.
Decide
where you are going to position your pipe-work for exiting
through the wall. See ‘selection of the installation
position’ in section 1 above for
notes on different ways to position the copper pipes. The
water drain pipe attached to the back of the indoor unit may
be positioned at either end of the drip tray. There is a
rubber ‘bung’ at the opposite end. Simply remove the ‘bung’
and swap it with the water drain pipe. Make sure that both a
re-fitted securely so the do not leak any water. Use some PTFE
plumbers tape if required to form a tight seal. Drill a 65mm
diameter hole where you are going to exit your pipe-work
through the wall of the building. Alternatively
(if
you have visible bricks on your building) remove a quarter of
a brick by ‘chain’ drilling a series of small holes joined
together vertically down through a brick, then drill the same
round the end of the mortar and knock through the quarter
piece of brick. The hole should slant downward slightly so
that your water drain pipe will have a sufficient ‘run-off’
to use gravity to drain the condensate water from the indoor
unit to the outside of the building. (The indoor unit can
produce over 2 ltr per hour in the summer). There is a 2 meter
ribbed extension pipe which may be used if necessary to extend
the condensate drain pipe, please use a good tape to join the
2 pipes. The extension fits on one way round only.
Once
you have decided where you will be placing your copper pipes,
water drain pipe and electrical wires, and drilled the
suitable holes for each (or combined all together into 1
hole), you are ready to mount the indoor unit. Depending on
your pipe directions you may need to attach your copper pipes
to the pipes on the back of the indoor unit first (refer to
the section on attaching pipes if necessary). ‘Hang’ the
indoor unit on the 2 ‘lugs’ at the top of the mounting
bracket and make sure the unit is in the middle of the
bracket. Push the lower part of the casing against the
mounting bracket until the 2 bottom ‘latches’ on the
mounting plate click into place on the rear of the plastic
casing.
3c
Checking the water discharge
Only
attempt this procedure if you are confident you
will be able to remove/replace the front
plastic casing without damaging the clips at the top of the
unit. If you have fitted the water drain pipe correctly,
slightly downwards
then it will most likely be OK anyway! If you wish to check it
though, proceed as follows:
Taking off the front plastic casing from the unit cover.
Take off the front plastic casing for maintenance according to
the following steps: As shown in the picture above, take off
two screw covers from the front plastic casing and then
unfasten two fixture screws, and 1 screw by central LED
display (model dependant).
Pull
the front casing towards you from the bottom, slipping it over
the oscillator fins and then ease it off the 3 plastic clips
at the top of the casing. To put the front casing back,
reverse the steps above. You should check whether the front
casing is firmly aligned into the groove on the top before
re-fitting the screws. To check the water discharge:-
Pour
a cup of water into the narrow drip tray. Check whether the
water flows through the water discharge hole and out of the
pipe correctly.
4a
Pipe Connection – Special Care Required
DO
NOT use the rubber O rings that are inside the
plastic
caps on the pipe fittings. Connect the pipes to the units:
Apply a few drops of ‘3 in 1 oil’ (with no additives,
available from DIY and hardware stores) to each face of the
joints. First place the taper of the pipe over the brass cone
and fasten the connection nut carefully at first by hand until
tight and then with 2 spanners that fit correctly until it is
tightly fastened. The pipes must be tight to avoid refrigerant
leaks, but be careful not to damage the fittings, DO NOT
OVERTIGHTEN, a single full pull on the spanners to the extent
of your arms should be sufficient. The fastening direction is
shown in the picture. (Clockwise threads). Repeat the same
process for both ends of both pipes.
4b
Fixing the pipes
Wrap
up all copper pipes with insulating foam,
fitted.
_
Cover the connection parts with insulation
material and fix them with cable ties at each end. Wrap up the pipes with tape alongside the wall
and fix them to the wall with clips or ‘knock-ins’. These
steps are usually adopted when outdoor unit is installed below
the indoor unit, although they can be above or below each
other.
In
case that you want to add an extension water discharge pipe,
the end of pipe should be above the floor (to prevent water
from draining back into the pipe). Fix it onto the wall so it
won’t be swayed by wind. _
Wrap the pipes and connection wires well from
bottom to top with tape. Wrap up the pipes that are grouped
together in the way shown in the picture as it may prevent
water from entering the room. Use clips, ‘knock-ins’ or
other fixings to fasten the pipes to the walls.
5
Expelling the air in the pipes and the indoor unit – Pay
attention to exact timings – use a digital watch!
You
must expel all the air from the system: moisture or damp air
in the refrigerating system will cause ‘sludging’ problems
with the compressor. Please use a stop watch or digital watch
and an assistant to accurately time procedures c) and e)
below.
Note:
The valves on your system are the other way up to
those
shown in this picture on the right.
a)
Take off the brass covers from the stop valve and T-branch
valve.
b)
Take off the auxiliary cover from the T-branch valve.
c)
Turn the stop valve (BOTTOM VALVE) using a hexagon wrench
(Allen key), anti clock-wise to an angle of 90 degrees
(QUARTER OF A TURN), keep it open for 6 - 7 seconds and then
CLOSE the valve fully - for now.
d)
Check whether there is any refrigerant leakage from the pipe
connections, at both ends, using a mixture of washing up
liquid & water in a plastic sprayer bottle, to see if any
air bubbles form (you are looking for tiny bubbles forming) on
the pipe joints, tighten the nuts further if necessary, and
then recheck. Once there are no leaks, you can continue. It is
extremely important that there are no tiny leaks, otherwise
you will need to have your refrigerant topped up within a
short time, and your system may be damaged!
e)
Next, push in the ‘tyre inflator’ style valve on the
T-branch valve (SIDE OF TOP VALVE) for 4 – 5 seconds using a
screwdriver or similar, to expel the air in the pipe-work.
CAUTION:
use a long enough implement as the refrigerant gas may
be
COLD in winter (not normally in summer). You may possibly
notice a slight oily residue on the tip of the screwdriver,
this is normal. BUT, do not worry, nor continue releasing for
longer than 5 seconds if no oil is present, oil is not always
seen as it may have been very settled in your system, so none
may be released from the valve.
f)
VERY IMPORTANT - Finally, open the stop and T-branch (TOP and
BOTTOM VALVES) valves with a hexagon wrench (Allen key) fully
anti-clockwise until they stop (then back off a quarter turn
to avoid seizing) to allow the gas / refrigerant to freely
circulate around the system. Then replace the 3 brass covers
on all the valves.
Failure
to open the 2 Hexagon Key valves fully may result in failure
of the Compressor.
g)
There must be no gas / refrigerant leaks, please check all the
piping connections parts again. You must test for leaks in all
joints; generally, this can be tested with washing up liquid
in water. A small plant / window sprayer is ideal for this.
6
Electrical connection
Unscrew the screws, and take off the
electrical panel cover (RH handle) from the
outdoor unit. Your system is pre-wired to the indoor unit, but
you need to connect the wires correctly to the outdoor. The interconnecting wires are numbered using
round sleeves at the end of each terminal; connect each
numbered wire to the corresponding number
OVER
6000 PRODUCTS AVAILABLE TO PURCHASE DIRECT
|
